Krabi Vacation

So, this past weekend we experienced some of the pleasures of Thailand's western coast along the Andaman Sea, staying at Le Passe-Temps, a boutique bungalow resort run by two French gentlemen, one of whom practices Taichi with Ellen here in Bangkok. They had a chance to practice together out in the surf our first evening there.



The bungalows are out in Ao Thalen, on the western outskirts of Krabi, are truly out of the way, surrounded by tropical trees and jungle foliage. A walk along the beach will find you surrounded on one side by thick mangrove trees, with the deep blue ocean on the other. During low tide, you can walk far out onto the flats, even wading out to the local weirs, if you are up to it.



Just down the road from Le Passe-Temps is a sea-kayak rental and tour company, where we took a breathtaking tour of the mangroves. A kayak or similar craft is required to get into the mangroves, you should go at high tide, and you'd better have a guide or you could easily get lost. The walls of the karst cliffs towered over us, providing views that you only ever see in movies and nature documentaries.



Dappled light falls down through the broad leaves of the mangroves and the towering limestone walls, upon which are inscribed enigmatic paintings from travelers long since past. Within various walls and crevices are stashed the remains of some of those travelers--the sea gypsies who would journey up and down the south-east Asian archipelago.



The trees themselves were teeming with life. From birds, to lizards, and monkeys deep in the mangroves. There are even gibbons, though they are usually too high up the cliff walls to see well. The monkeys--long-tailed macaques to be precise--will actually jump on the boats as they pass by, searching for food. Of course, that's better than the monkeys at our next adventure, where they will jump on you!



The macaques at the Tiger Cave Temple were quite brazen, jumping on people and doing whatever they could to get food, water, or just something shiny. With the steep steps up to the top of the mountain, you are always at eye level with one or more of them, though they do scatter if they see you act dominant. They have, however, learned that young Thai women are easy prey, and seem to figure most other women fall into the same category.



The thieving monkeys can hardly stop you from enjoying the view from the steep sides of the mountain, though. Unfortunately, I only made it up about 3/4 of the 1200+ steps before night began rapidly descending. Ellen had stopped even further below. I wouldn't mind trying it next time, just starting a little earlier. After all, here is the goal:



See the golden spire at the top? From the gray spire at the bottom to the gold stupa at the top--that's the goal. It is supposed to be an impressive view, especially at sunset.



The next day, we got up early. A walk across the flats really can bring you right up to those nets, as you can see here. The birds (I think they might be sea swiftlets--the ones that make the edible nests) also seemed to like to partake of these vantage points.



Walking along the beach, one of the dogs at the resort decided to follow us. Robert enjoys exploring the beach, and really seemed to enjoy digging for crabs.



Of course, once you find it...



...what do you do with it?



This really was a wonderfully relaxing vacation... the only problem is the stress of leaving it all and coming back home. Oh well. The coconuts, the oil palms, the rubber trees, and the mangroves--and everything that makes them their homes--will still be there when we return.